The ONE Thing A Derm Needs You To Remember

You’ve heard it a million times before but here it is again: sun protection. I’ve interviewed many a dermatologist and it’s always the same response because it really is the best-skin-possible advice. And there is no need to ask ‘which one?’ because the response is always the same too - it’s the one you will wear every single day. High-end or budget, just make sure it’s broad-spectrum (UVA + UVB). 

 Dr Annika Smith, who is a Fellow of the Australasian College of Dermatologists and Consultant Dermatologist at St Vincent’s and Westmead Hospitals as well as an ambassador for Elizabeth Arden, shares her sage advice for our 45+ skin. 

1. What do you see us ladies forgetting to do that you wish you could change?

“Sun protection, sun protection, sun protection. Often there may be a defeatist approach, i.e. the ‘damage is already done’, and a keenness to improve the appearance of one’s skin from a cosmetic perspective, without remembering that the addition of daily sun protection (namely a good sunscreen with SPF 50, broad-spectrum protection) is key to preventing further sun damage (photoaging and skin cancer risk) but is also needed to derive maximal benefits from your skin care ingredients and treatments (i.e. laser). Without sun protection you risk undoing all the hard work done. 

2. Can our sun damage be reversed? 

“Prevention is key and is certainly easier than reversal when it comes to sun damage. There are options to treat sun damage but this is futile unless a solid sun protection regime (including daily SPF Broad Spectrum protection) is in place first and concurrent with any treatment pursued. Sun damage results in premature photoaging of the skin and contributes to skin cancer risk. In terms of skin cancer risk, for some skin cancers this is due to the sun (UV radiation) seen in the first 10-20 years of life, for other skin cancers, this can be due to cumulative lifetime sun exposure. So, instituting appropriate sun protection is still beneficial at any age and can help mitigate skin cancer risk. It is important to note that a combination of the full sun protective measures offers the best protection (hats, sunscreen, sunglasses, avoiding sun in the middle of the day, seeking shade where possible, sun-protective clothing). 

With respect to premature photoaging of the skin, choice of skin care actives very much depends on the nature and degree of sun-induced damage and one’s desired aims and skin type:

• Prevention in terms of daily sunscreen: SPF 50+, broad spectrum protection is key. 

• Incorporating an antioxidant can be considered, typically as part of one’s morning routine, to combat oxidative stress incurred throughout the day (i.e. UV radiation) for example vitamin C, Vitamin B3 (nicotinamide) which have potent antioxidant effects. 

• In the evening, incorporating a topical retinoid (vitamin A derivative) into one’s skin care routine can assist with skin cell renewal and collagen production, which may combat signs of sun damage. 

• Beyond topical approaches are physical modalities, such as laser, that can assist with improving the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation as a result of sun damage. 

 It is important to note that while the physical appearance of the skin may be improved to a degree with certain topical, physical therapies and cosmetic modalities, the DNA damage that occurs to skin cells, as a result of excessive UV radiation and that can ultimately give rise to skin cancer, is more difficult to reverse. Sometimes the skin cells are so damaged they are not repairable.”

3. How essential is a serum in our skin care routine? 

“Depends on what ‘serum’ you are referring to, the actives contained in the serum in addition to one’s skin care aims, and skin type. Skin is uniquely individual and there is not prescriptive one-size-fits-all approach here.  Serums are formulated to penetrate and deliver certain actives in high concentration to the skin, and actives are often targeted to address a specific skin care concern. These actives may be antioxidants or humectants to name a few. In general, as skin ages, natural stores of moisture attracting and retaining factors such hyaluronic acid (HA) and ceramides naturally decline. Dehydrated skin contributes to the appearance of aging i.e. fine lines/wrinkles so incorporating natural moisturising factors and humectants such as HA and factors that reinforce skin barrier function and moisture retention may assist in delivering a more hydrated and in turn, more youthful appearance to the skin.”

4. If you could choose only one ingredient for dry, 45+ skin what would it be?

 “I am big believer in keeping things simple. My one ingredient would be sunscreen (one that you like and will wear), with appropriate SPF, broad-spectrum protection (ideally SPF 50+, BS), accompanied by an appropriate moisturiser or serum of choice (that may contain ceramides or hyaluronic acid to combat dryness) and/or antioxidants.”

 5. Do you think the increase in screen time is having a negative effect on our skin?

 “Blue light (which can be emitted from screens) is derived from the high energy, short-wavelength visible light spectrum, which may contribute to hyperpigmentation (dark spots) in the skin and possibly photoaging (through the generation of reactive oxygen species which can lead to oxidative stress, cellular/DNA damage and inflammation. More research is needed on this front, however available evidence suggests there is the potential for blue light to be damaging to not only our circadian rhythm and eyesight but also our skin.” 

 Beauty Editor’s Fave: I have been road-testing Elizabeth Arden’s new Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules Hydra-Plumping Serum ($79, from Myer, David Jones) and I highly recommend these biodegradable capsules for 45+ dry skin. They work because the hyaluronic acid (a sugar found naturally in our skin that holds water and helps keep skin hydrated and plump but readily decreases with age) deposits moisture into the skin while the ceramides lock it in, so it doesn’t escape. It’s a winning combo!  I noticed a difference in my skin after just two weeks of use - morning and night - before I moisturised.

NOTE: I’m not paid to endorse these products, I only recommend products I believe in and know that work. If any of my content is in partnership with a beauty client I’ll tell you - full transparency here! And I will only work with sponsors to promote products that I have personally tried and loved. If I don’t love it and believe it works for women 40+  I just won’t recommend it.”